Nielloware (Krueng Thom) Niellowares are the symbol of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Valued and well known since the old days, the nielloware handicraft has been passed down from generation to generation in Nakhon Si Thammarat. In the past, nielloware was offered to kings as royal tribute. There are two types of nielloware. One with a black surface with gold designs and one with a black surface with silver designs. The Nakhon Si Thammarat College of Arts and Handicrafts teaches this craft. The beautiful effect of Nakhon nielloware stems from the skills of the smiths and the quality of the black compound holding the gold or silver. Two kinds of Nakhon nielloware are produced. The black kind normally bears silver designs and gold kind is covered with gold designs. The nielloware smith will apply real gold, mixed with mercury on a piece of silver that has a design on it. This is placed over fire so that the mercury evaporates, leaving the gold clinging firmly to the silver. Later, the finished product is polished until it shines. Nakhon nielloware has its own identity and is difficult to copy. All items are made by highly-skilled craftsmen who produce a very fine finish. With the number of nielloware workers decreasing due to the difficulty in training, nielloware producers in Nakhon Si Thammarat are attempting to promote this fine skill by modifying nielloware products to make them useful in everyday life. Such products make perfect gifts and are useful as personal accessories. They also demonstrate the cultural heritage handed down by past generations. Nielloware of this province is popular for its durability and its intricate design. The finished product is a bright and shiny black object with beautiful patterns. Items include rings, necklaces, bracelets, bowls, pedestals, and trays. The best shopping area is in the area of Tha Chang Road, behind Sanam Na Mueang in the area of Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipality, and also at the Tha Wang market. Sources: Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Nakhon Si Thammarat Office. Amazing Thailand Nakhon Si Thammarat, page 42. 2010.

Shadow Play (Nang Talung) Shadow play (Nang Talung) is another art which dates back to the early 19th century. The shadow play puppets are either made from cow hide, buffalo hide or goat hide and neither too thick nor too thin. Designs are made by using chisels of various sizes to make small holes along drawn patterns. The price of each puppet varies according to the delicateness and the size of each one. The translucent hide is intricately carved with the figure of some character or a scene from a theatrical play or folk tale. And then the hide is painted, usually black. The finished puppet is mounted on a slender stick and manipulated before a strong light, which throws the shadow onto a screen. Shadow plays originated in the Phatthalung province and are particularly popular in the festivals of Southern Thailand. They have become the symbol of the local life in that region. But because there are only few skilled carvers, shadow plays are rarely staged elsewhere. The shadow play puppets are important products of Nakhon Si Thammarat has plenty of shops selling this unique item. Puppets come in many sizes and are designed in many decorative styles representing nature, the way of life, and the culture of Thailand. If people would like to see a shadow play carving demonstration, they can visit Suchart Sabsin’s shadow play museum where staff can demonstrate the cutting process. Short shadow play shows can also be performed for a nominal fee. Sources: Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Nakhon Si Thammarat Office. Amazing Thailand Nakhon Si Thammarat, page 42. 2010.

Yan Lipao Basketry Famous product in Nakhon over 100 years Yan Lipao is a vine that grows in damp places among other plants in the forests of Nakhon Si Thammarat. This vine is very tough and durable and locals have found a way to make good use of it by making household goods such as handbags, tobacco boxes and tea accessories from it. Some pieces are encased in silver or gold. Depending on the details of the design, it takes between ten days to a month to make an item. The major Yan Lipao production spots are Ban Mon, Tambon Tha Rua and Ban Na Khian, Tambon Na Khian (both in Amphoe Mueang), and Fort Vajiravudh. The stitching of Yan Lipao vines began in the early Rattanakosin era. Basketry appealed to the aristocrats, noblemen, and the elite in Bangkok. During the reign of King Chulalongkorn, courtiers favored the use of handbags and pedestal trays that were made from Yan Lipao. Later, metal pieces and other adornments like gold, nak (gold bronze), silver, and ivory were added to enhance its appeal. These age-old objects were once fashionable but their popularity gradually waned. The Yan Lipao know-how could have been lost had it not been for the sagacity and good artistic taste of the Queen. She considered it a cultural heritage that should by no means be forgotten. Plus she believed that the vintage attractiveness of its basketry would make a profitable supplementary occupation for the people in the areas where the vines grow in abundance. Of course, Yan Lipao weaving involves great effort. One has to go deep into the forest to look for vines not less than an arm’s length and not too young to dry in the shade. Forthermore, properly dried strings have to be trimmed or smoothed out before use. Despite these difficulties, the Queen was sure that the ingenuity which runs in the blood of the Thai people would see them through. Those few people who had knowledge about the art were rounded up to teach the skill to members of the SUPPORT Foundation. A decade later, the almost lost art has been successfully revived. Yan Lipao basketry is popular both in the country and abroad. This is a handicraft that has become a stable source of income, bringing new life and upgrading the quality of life of a great number of Thai people. Sources: Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Nakhon Si Thammarat Office. Amazing Thailand Nakhon Si Thammarat, page 43. 2010.

Suchart Sabsin Shadow Play Local Museum “Thank you very much for conserving this kind of performing art.” These were the words spoken by the King to Suchart Sabsin, who is from Mueang Nakhon and considered to be the best shadow play performer, after a show in 1985. This inspired Suchart (also known as Master Suchart) to open a museum that same year to preserve this local cultural heritage for as long as he can. His museum is called the Shadow Play Local Museum. His desire to continue this art in its ancient traditional form is evident in many ways. It has led Master Suchart to use five traditional musical instruments in his shadow play performances. And when he’s not on the stage, he teaches his students and children how to carve out different puppets and perform with them. In addition, he is also a cowskin craftsman who makes his own shadow play puppets. Master Suchart owns a large collection of cowskin shadow play puppets that are on display in his museum on the second floor. The most attractive ones are over 200 years old with some that represent the Issan people and some that represent Muslims. There are also others that portray people from China, India and Turkey. Visitors can watch a cowskin carving demonstration to see how the puppets are made, too. At the souvenir shop, cowskin puppets and other cowskin items like keychains are sold. Donations are welcomed to support the museum. Master Suchart has won several awards. He was honoured as the Most Outstanding Person in Culture and Handicrafts by the Office of the National Cultural Committee in 1988 for his carving of cowskin shadow play puppets. He won the National Artist of the Year in Performing Arts in 2006, the highest honor for the person who has devoted himself in really extending and conserving the local arts of Nakhon Si Thammarat. And in 2009, he was named the Art Teacher of the Land. Sources: Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Nakhon Si Thammarat Office. Trace Kinnaree at Mueang Nakhon, page 4-5. 2012.

Khun Phantharak Rajjadej was born on Feb 18, 1903 in Ban Ai Kheaw, which is in the Tha Sala district of Nakhon Si Thammarat. He graduated Pratomsuksa 3 from Benjamarachutit School in 1913. He moved to Bangkok and graduated Wat Benjamabopit School in 1924. After that, he studied at the Huay Chorakeae police cadet academy in Nakhon Pratom in 1925. He was chief of Police Region 8 and believed to be the last commoner holding the noble title “Khun” He died at the age of 103 on July 5, 2006. Known as tough crime buster for 70 years. Khun Phan was respected by colleagues and local residents but feared by criminals. He had a good reputation because he wiped out many notorious criminal gangs in southern provinces such as Phatthalung and in central provinces like Suphan Buri. As a reward, he was granted his title in 1935. Also, he was well versed in Thai history and folklore and was a prolific writer, having penned articles for many publications. In 1960, he was appointed as chief of Police Region 8 and promoted to a major-general. Khun Phan retired in 1964. He entered politics and was elected as the Nakhon Si Thammarat MP (Member of Parliament) for the Democrat party in 1973. A master of rituals in Nakhon Si Thammarat, Khun Phan advised on the installation of the city pillar shrine in 1987. He is very well known for his Visha (magic) knowledge and was frequently invited to participate in amulet consecration ceremonies around Thailand. Sources: http://th.wikipedia.org/wiki

Phor Than Klai is a famous monk from the South. Legend has it that whatever Phor Than Klai said or predicted always came true. Thus, he was given the title “Golden Mouth” (Wajasit). When he was 14 years old, he was chopping trees for firewood with his uncle. A tree he was chopping fell towards him and his left leg was squashed. Phor Than Klai thought it was nothing more than just a small injury and did not seek medical attention. But the injury didn’t heal and eventually it became worse. His left ankle swelled greatly, the pain was unbearable and he got gangrene. It couldn’t be cured. Because he couldn’t bear the pain anymore, Phor Than Klai took a sharp knife and cut off his bad ankle. Someone found out and immediately looked for herbs to help him to stop the bleeding. A medicinal healer was found and his amputation was treated. But Phor Than Klai had trouble walking and usually used a water buffalo to get around. Due to this, he become less mobile and decided to become a monk. At the age of 15 he was ordained and by the age of 26 he became the temple abbot at Wat Chan Di (or Wat Tatt Noi) Around 60 years ago, Phor Than Klai had made a batch of Jatukam amulets. He had two students and one of them was Khun Phantharak Rajjadej. The size of his Jatukam amulets were bigger than they are today. Amulets made by Phor Than Klai are very collectable and expensive as Phor Than Klai was one of the highest ranked monks and is still very famous in Thailand. During that time, Phor Than Klai become one of the King’s most respected monks. He passed away in 1970 (B.E.2513) at the age of 94. Mysteriously, after he died they tried to burn his body a few times but nobody could burn it. The King himself tried it but he could only burn one of his toes. Phor Than Klai’s body is still intact and present or viewing at Wat That Doi in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Sources: http://theamazingthailand.blogspot.com/2009/02/blog-post_25.html

Tenth Lunar Month Festival The Tenth Lunar Month festival was first held in Nakhon Si Thammarat in 1923 and has since become an annual event. Besides the traditional activities of the three days and nights, this event also includes trade fairs and performances. This festival was originally the idea of Thais who wanted to pay respect to their ancestors and offer merit. As a result, this occasion has become one of the most important and biggest events in Nakhon Si Thammarat. The tenth lunar month occurs around September during the period in which the crop yield of farms is at its greatest. In the past the local people decided to offer their products to the spirits. They believed that the time between the 1st to the 15th day of the waning moon in the tenth lunar month was when the spirits of their ancestors, particularly the ones of those who have not yet been reincarnated, will be released from the underworld. On this occasion, those still alive make merit by giving food offerings to Buddhist monks who dedicate it to the dead. The merit making starts on the first day of the festival. Fifteen days from this day, the spirits of the dead will go back to the underworld. On the last day of the festival, another merit making ceremony is arranged and most people attend it. On the 13th day, the villagers buy and cook food, arrange it in sets and it offer to the monks on the next day. The sets of food offerings are usually laid in a short bamboo basket and added to other items used by monks. Five major Thai snacks are required. The first one is the “Phong,” which represents a vehicle that will take the spirits to heaven. The second is the “La,” clothing for the dead, and third, the “Kong” as an accessory. “Di Sam,” believed to be used as money by the dead is the fourth. And finally, the “Ba” snack is given to the dead as a tool for playing with during Songkran days. However, the elderly believe that another snack is needed to be put in. It is “La Loy,” which acts as a bed and a pillow for the spirits. Most of these items are dried snacks that can be kept for a long time. After giving the food offerings to the monks, a ceremony is held to give alms to Pret, a hungry ghost with a thin, tall body. Food and snacks are put on a high post so that Pret can reach them. Then the monks pray and call the ghosts. At the end, a ceremony commonly known as Ching Pret will occur when poor villagers or children rush in and snatch the food and snacks. Sources: http://www.highlightthailand.com/main/detail_content/The-Tenth-Lunar-Month-Festival/59.html